And the roller coaster continues

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Matadouro beach

Life does not always take the turns we think, and especially not in the time frame we’re hoping/expecting/predicting.
Had a great surf day yesterday and in the beginning today, then my ribs started hurting again. Really bad. On the other side than last time.

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Sunset last night

So, this surf trip probably will end with a few more days of rest before going to France on Monday. Was reminded from several people about how this roller coaster called life hardly ever is as predictable or as straight as we hope when trying to plan or take control over things.

So, I guess surfing is something I will get to practice more in the future.

Chill out!
//Wivan

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Mental growth or whatever

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A friend hurt his fot the last day of his trip

Being hurt, not able to surf with the others or even do my surf pop-up training in a few days is pushing old “buttons” in my mind.

Thoughts are coming to visit and it’s quite interesting and tiresome to notice. So, as I said to a experienced surfer earlier today; this is probably doing a lot for my personal growth even though my surfer skills are not improved at the moment. Or, are they?

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Friend at the beach

Earlier in my life this would be a disaster, not to attend or be part of the group’s development. And to miss out on the physical training. Now I can see and hear those thoughts coming and most of the time I let them go as fast as they come. Just because I think it, it doesn’t mean it’s true.

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Dinner view from last night

And my life does not depend on wether I surf for a few days or not. Learn to surf, or to try, can be taken up any time, really. Sure, it’s one of many things on my bucket list, and now I have tried it out a little at least.

Today I allow myself to be all that comes; tired, sad, sometimes feeling lonely and at times singing, dancing and enjoying a good laugh.

//Wivan, sharing a new part of living in the moment

Rest, ribs and relaxation

Yesterday I didn’t attend the surf lesson. My ribs were hurting too much from Thursday’s hard conditions and lots of smashing of waves and the board.
I sort of knew that beforehand but still wanted to see how it felt on the board. Already during the warm up I stepped away, cried for a bit and then watched the others for a while.

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Watching others surf

Then walked back to the camp to get some help to check out what was wrong. A nurse came to our house within less than two hours, asked questions and felt what my body was like. It’s luckily only muscles that’s been a bit stressed by all the impact and some rest, anti-inflamatory and some type of medicine patch will probably be enough to get back into shape within some days.

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David surfing

It was so nice to have the nurse come here and see me, she’s then sent me a massage to check up on me at night, and probably she’ll drop by again today.

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Patch on my ribs

At night we went to a beach restaurant where there was a live music session. So good!

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Live music session

And apparently there was beer. Lots of it…

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Me to the left

Today I woke up early, like yesterday, and have been walking on the beach, swimming and relaxing for a bit.

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Beautiful morning with low tide

Soon time for breakfast and then a lazy day in the sun.

Take care! //Wivan

Persistance and my ribs

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David helping me with the wet suit

Seem to get good practice of persistance and endurance with the waves and my body this day.

The session went well and we had great chances to stand up on the board, to find the timing in catching a wave and it was good fun.

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After surfing

My ribs got some hard hits and I was wining every time I layed on the board in the end of our lesson. Kept repeating “persistance” and “I am getting stronger” all the time.

Now time for some rest and I loved reading Leo Babauta’s blog post about trying something and sucking at it.

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Morning at the beach

Trusting my ability to rest in the not so comfortable zone, and my body’s ability to heal itself totally automaticly if I just let it.

Take care!
//Wivan

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Lunch after surf: hamburger at the food truck