The words I keep hearing when trying to surf is instructor Diego’s “Bend more your knees”.
Yesterday I actually did get up to standing on the surf board and surfed a couple of waves. Happy happy!
We got bigger and more powerful waves in the afternoon and we were a bunch of people taking the chance to try our luck in the waves on our own.
Usually it’s a lot of waiting on the board to see a good wave, paddle to catch it and then hopefully time it right and get up.
Right now I try and try and try. Time after time. Getting caught in the waves on the way out again and trying to come through means lots of paddling.
Ok, time to go get ready for today’s BIG waves and tight sets.