“Bend more your knees”


Instructions before yesterday's free surfing

The words I keep hearing when trying to surf is instructor Diego’s “Bend more your knees”.

Yesterday I actually did get up to standing on the surf board and surfed a couple of waves. Happy happy!


Before warm up

We got bigger and more powerful waves in the afternoon and we were a bunch of people taking the chance to try our luck in the waves on our own.


Sun, sets of waves and paddling

Usually it’s a lot of waiting on the board to see a good wave, paddle to catch it and then hopefully time it right and get up.
Right now I try and try and try. Time after time. Getting caught in the waves on the way out again and trying to come through means lots of paddling.


Resting on the lunch break

Ok, time to go get ready for today’s BIG waves and tight sets.


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